My friend and long time supporter Darlene Wade mentioned Venetian glass this morning. It reminded me of the long history of glass-making on the island of Murano – just a stone’s throw from Venice.

GLASS – Glass-making is a fascinating process. Glass is made by super-heating sand, soda ash and limestone to create a molten, viscous liquid, a bit like volcanic lava in texture. This viscous, boiling hot liquid can be shaped and moulded into a variety of shapes. In Venice the technique of glass-blowing was perfected, probably during Roman times. Glass beads and tiny glass fragments have been found in excavations around the Roman town of Altinum on the shores of the Venetian Lagoon. Two thousand years later and the art of glass-making is still going strong.

In recent years decorative glass art has been brought into the 21st century with the production of exceptional glass art sculptures by innovators like US artist Dale Chihuly. When I was in Amsterdam Airport returning to the UK last November I came across a superb Dale Chihuly installation at Schiphol Airport. I was very impressed. In fact the contrast between Dale Chihuly’s giant, colourful Murano glass, super-modern stones and the deserted airport, emptied by the impact of the corona virus pandemic created a stark contrast in mood and human endeavour.

MURANO – Glass makers have lived and worked on Murano, an island just to the north of Venice, since the 13th century. Before that they worked in Venice itself but were ordered to move, by government decree, because of the fire risk. The glass makers of Venice started making glass beads and mirrors, soon they were making vases, dishes and all types of glass ornaments. They also have a long history of making elaborate chandeliers. Most palaces and hotels in Venice own at least one Murano glass chandelier. Elton John is the proud owner of a Venetian glass chandelier. To this day Murano is probably the number one producer in the world of top quality, artistic glassware. Many visitors to Venice hop on a boat and take the short journey over to Murano to visit the glass factories and the numerous souvenir shops.

_{Venetian Lagoon (1932) – Murano is just to the right of Venezia (above). www.educated-traveller.com}

In September 2024 Tracy Chevalier’s latest novel ‘The Glass Maker’ was published in the UK. I bought a beautifully designed hardback copy signed by the author. The book itself is a thing of beauty with fabulous cover design and elegantly coloured edge painting of the pages – see below. Chevalier’s book describes the glass-making families and their lives from the 15th century onwards in vivid and compelling detail. The main character in the book is a young girl called Orsola Rosso, she is a member of an established glass-making family on Murano. The book covers family events over several centuries and, using a device the author calls ‘Venetian time’ we see the characters progressing through life from the 15th century to the present day, without ageing in the usual way. The descriptions of the glass-makers, their dedication to their trade and their fortitude when the going gets tough, makes for compelling reading. The book also discusses life on the island of Murano and the intrinsic relationship between the Muranese (people of Murano) and their island. In the 15th, 16th & 17th centuries few people left the island. A trip to Venice required the services of a gondolier, who would row you from Murano to Venice, a boat ride taking at least one hour. The journey would take two hours if you were heading for Rialto. Chevalier’s inspiration for the main gondolier in her book comes from a painting by Carpaccio. In the photos below you’ll notice a tall, athletic man wearing a red jacket and a hat with a white feather. This gondolier steps into the pages of ‘The Glass Maker’ as Domenego. The painting is called ‘Miracle of the Relic(s) of the Holy Cross at Rialto’. The canvas is filled with exceptional detail depicting characters and costumes of the late 15th century. It’s on display in the Accademia, Venice. I’d strongly recommend ‘The Glass Maker’ as a winter read! I’d also recommend a trip to the Accademia.

_{Tracy Chevalier’s ‘The Glass Maker’ photos: www.educated-traveller.com}

_{Miracle of the relics of the holy cross – painting of Rialto – Carpaccio 1494 (details): Accademia, Venezia}

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Early in 2024 I was fortunate to be introduced to Aristide Nejean, an artist, designer and innovator in the field of glass sculpture and creativity. Nejean works on Murano and produces exquisite one-off pieces for international clients. Last year he undertook a commission from Guerlain, the French perfume and fashion house to create a unique, glass decoration for one of their most iconic scents. This video shows how it was done – well worth a two minute watch: Creation of a glass jewel

_{Aristide Nejean’s ‘Glass Cathedral’ on Murano – a studio, laboratory & innovation centre}

Several decades earlier in the 1980s Dale Chihuly, America’s famous glass artist and sculptor travelled to Murano to study with the master glass workers. He fused modern sculptural techniques with traditional practises. He has since worked extensively all over the US and further afield, creating vast, contemporary glass sculptures. He’s probably most famous for his glass ceiling at The Bellagio Hotel, Las Vegas.

INNOVATION – Innovation and re-invention of the glass-making heritage in Italy is happening today in Murano, with the work of people like Adriano Berengo. Mr Berengo opened the glass workshop ‘Glassstress’ in 2014, and his mission is to inspire and create exceptional glass pieces in a modern and contemporary context. In his words,

”Glasstress is my tribute and thank you to the island of Murano and to the city of Venice. Glasstress is the movement that wants to write new chapters in the histories of both glass and art.”

Berengo has encouraged numerous contemporary artists to work with him on original and ground-breaking glass artistry projects. A year or so ago he collaborated with Ai Weiwei to create a limited edition range of glass hands. Ai Weiwei also created an incredible sparkling white contemporary chandelier. You can discover more about the Berengo philosophy at www.berengo.com

VENETIAN GLASS – Venetian glass design and style became more ornate and detailed over the centuries. Venetian glass was exported all over Europe. Later it was shipped to the United States and to every continent. The unique, highly decorated chandeliers of the Murano workshops are to be found in almost every palace, luxury hotel and public building in Italy. Here are just a few examples of the ornate glassware that decorates the ballrooms and salons of so many historic palazzos.

VENICE – A CITY OF TRADE – Venice was an independent, maritime republic for one thousand years. The city was the major trading centre and port for ships travelling from east to west. Spices, silks, gold and precious stones flooded into the city. Luxury goods, fine fabrics and exotic animals arrived in Venice. In the 16th century Shakespeare was writing about Venice. The Courts of Paris, London, Vienna and Madrid were talking about Venice. By the 1550s there were more than 200 printing presses in Venice, producing books, pamphlets and maps. The printed word brought knowledge and information. This unique city marooned between land and sea created a trading and artistic legacy that lives on to this day. Murano glass is part of this exceptional city’s heritage. Venice is an inspiration to artists and artisans and will continue to be, both now and in the future.

In 2022 a new exhibition by Chinese Artist Ai Weiwei focused on the reality of life in our surveillance society. Wei Wei created a vast, dark, black chandelier out of Murano glass. The work was called the ‘Commedia Umana’ and was on display at San Giorgio Maggiore. A strange and disturbing mixture of human bones, skulls, body parts, rib cages, hearts and even cameras. Each piece made of the darkest black Murano glass. All pieced together in a disturbing dystopian drama of anxiety and confusion. Just like the ‘Last Judgement’ paintings so popular in medieval Italy, Ai Weiwei used these bizarre dismembered parts as a means of confusing and unsettling the viewer. A way of exercising artistic control that subjugates the ordinary person – a person like me. I was left feeling detached and ill at ease. Since then our surveillance society has almost certainly become more invasive.

Notes:

• Glass makers have worked on the island of Murano since the 1290s.
• The glass makers of Murano are highly skilled and export their work globally.
• Murano glass chandeliers are a feature of most luxury hotels in Italy – even today.
• Alessia Fuga is a young Venetian woman making a range of beautiful glass items, beads, flowers & jewellery. She has a studio on Murano, speaks excellent English and offers glass-making sessions.
• www.alessiafuga.com
• You can visit the Berengo workshop and studio: www.berengo.com
• I’d also recommend Andrea Perotta’s ‘New Murano Gallery’ he has an impressive range of show rooms. www.newmuranogallery.com
• In the USA – Dale Chihuly has popularised ‘art sculpture’ and exhibited in numerous locations.
• www.chihuly.com

SPECIAL NOTE – There are numerous high quality artists working on Murano today. The most impressive for me is Aristide Nejean whose Glass Cathedral is open by appointment only. He is an artist and designer working with the highest quality brands in France and North America. A visit to his private ‘glass cathedral’ is quite simply awe-inspiring. Nejean is working at the highest level. www.aristidenejean.ch

_{Aristide Nejean’s ‘Glass Cathedral’ on Murano – a studio, laboratory & innovation centre}

Further reading – other articles that I have written:

• The beauty of Venice
• Murano – mosaics and arches in the lagoon….
• Saints and Angels in Venice…
• Venice and Homo Faber – an exhibition of artisan skill, runs every two years – next event Sept, 2026.
• For unique visits to glass makers (usually not open to the public) contact me or Bilge (my assistant). We can open almost all doors in Venice. What’s App: +44 7590 990 160

_{Andrea Perotta’s ‘New Murano Gallery’ is a delight to visit. www.newmuranogallery.com}

2024 – Celebrating Venice Glass Week 2024!

14 Sept, 2024: Venice’s Glass Week kicked off with a new and original promotional tool at large. It’s a re-purposed vaporetto ‘bateo’ in Venetian dialect – kitted out with Murano glass from various maestri – super creative! Watch the video here – very impressive: The Glass Bateo

A NOTE ON THE AUTHOR – Janet Simmonds (nee Panagakis) is a British-born travel expert, tour guide, writer and travel company owner. Born in Liverpool with a slightly Greek grand-father and a very Greek great grand-father she has a special affinity with the history, culture and art of the Mediterranean, especially Italy and Greece. She studied Geography and Art History at the Universities of Oxford and Manchester, Janet has spent most of her adult life running specialist travel companies and travelling extensively. Several times a year she leads small groups to different parts of Europe. Most recently to Venice, Naples, Trieste, Basilicata and Athens. She is available as a guest lecturer and Venice expert.

Collectively our little team, consisting of Janet, Lucy and Bilge (Billgay) can speak the following languages; English, French, Italian, German, Greek and Turkish. We offer unique tailor-made tours for small groups. We also provide unique journey planning services for individuals, couples and families. Quality and attention to detail are our hallmarks.

• www.educated-traveller.com
• www.grand-tourist.com

• 05 May 2021 – originally published
• 27 October 2023 – updated
• 18 November 2024 – updated & edited.

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If you’d like to join one of our adventures in 2025 – here’s the calendar of tours for 2025:

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